Pointers for a newb

[conand81]

... and the newb would be me.
Anyhow, I've been browsing these forums and found that most(if not all!) links to tutorials 'n stuff like that are long gone dead; and I have some stuff buzzing around in my head that needs answers.

For starters, I've been wondering about what kind of paper I should use?
I've noticed that regular printer paper (80 g/m²) works well for small to tiny models, and even on medium sized models(up to 50cm imo) if you're careful and strengthen big flat areas.
But I'm planing to make some quite large models, up to about 130cm long is my estimation, do you have any paper- or technique-recommendations for that size? Or any other paper related advice at all would be appreciated! (the current plan is to make both BCs from HW2 in that size so that I can make "spotable/foldable" fighters in somewhat right size in comparison.)

More on paper:
- the surface... glossy/photo-paper? too expensive? too shiny? or just plain awesome/wrong?
- how thick cardboard-paper can you 'Generally' put through the printer? I've heard that 160g/m² should be no prob in most cases, but what about thicker? Should I just fold it uncolored and then glue on thinner paper over it with the colors?
- and finally, about rather thick paper, doesn't it risk to rip/tear when you fold it? or is that concern unfounded since I'm not going to handle paper that thick? Tho, I've noticed photo-paper seems to tear on the glossy side almost regardless of thickness.

[brag]I've got most of the issues on the "computer-side" figured out, so that will pose no problems at least. [/brag]
It's the crafty part that's somehwat the problem, so any other basic(or more advanced) tips or tutorials on paper folding would be very much appreciated as well.

[yessmasster]

I'm using thick paper, like 240g/m2. I just can't find 160g paper anywhere .

Anyways today i have came up with good method of nicely clue'ing such models (they have advantage of being stiffer than 160g ones).

The secret i found out is that before clueing i take scissors in my hand (they can't be too sharp, but they have to have cone-like tip, not round one), i put a ruler along clue'ing edge, and move tip of scissors along it, pressing it gently,

It's generally bad if you cut it, it should be slightly intruded (opposite of extruded, not sure if that's the right word, i'm not from england or USA), now when you cloe paper it should fold along the intrusion, and you don't have to worry about folding not going straight.

I guess it should apply to 160g as well.

[arlia101]

well, the good tutorials are about all on fructose's site... but there are still plenty of good tips floating around all over.
i think i use 160g paper, not quite remembering. glossy/textured, never tried it but if there aren't glue stains or fingerprints i expect it'll look quite spectacular (depending on the ship; i'd never do a 'junk' model in gloss, probly stick to HW2 fleets also)
im pretty sure the ripping and tearing will only be a real problem with _Very_ heavy stock, but im in the habit of scoring the fold lines with a blunt blade before the assembly, or even cutting it out;
<i also use a bench grinder to re-sharpen my knife, and reshape the cutting edge - gives very nice results.>
if the scores are too visible (ie, white showing thru), i reccommend colored pencils -they do amazing things for touch-up work

[conand81]

Ah, scoring, that's excellent advice from both of you! and now that you mentioned it I remember doing it once when I used some really thick photo paper(200-300g/m²) for This Paper Model. (url:s should really be made more visible in this forum ) But I'm sure it would've remained forgotten for a long time unless you mentioned it.
And as you said about photo paper, if you manage not to soil it with fingerprints and glue, it looks absolutely awesome, the colors becomes so vivid it's insane. That necromancer turned out exactly as the picture on the homepage.

I think I'm going to try to do a model (a frigate perhaps) with some ~160g glossy paper, it's not quite photo paper, but hopefully it will give a similar result to the color without being as susceptible to fingerprints and tearing... or perhaps someone have already tried this with good or bad results?

Regarding fructose's homepage(which is awesome btw! ), isn't those tutorials mostly about computer related stuff? Or have I missed something?

[conand81]

Mjeh, the so called "glossy" 160g/m² paper wasn't really glossy, it was something in between regular matte printer paper and the "glossiness" I imagined... The package actually says "smooth surface", so I must've brain farted while surrounded by the commotion at the store, they apparently had a big sale going down today... the glossy paper that I planed to buy weighed 200g/m², so the weight must've thrown me off target.

Anyhow, this "smoOoth" paper at 160g/m² seems promising as well, even if it is a bit thinner than I imagined it would be.

... and I'm trying to decide if I'm going to do the "Kadeshi Multibeam Frigate" or the "Hiigaran Torpedo Frigate", what do ya think? I would actually want to do Captain Soban's Marine Frigate, but I havn't found any schematics for it, which means I'd have to do it myself, which takes ages. =_=

[MAN MAN]

hey if you "send" me a mesh ill try and get you tha normal marian frigat and sobons! oh and id start with the Hiigaran Torpedo Frigate if i were you.

[conand81]

A Torpedo Frigate it is then!
Think that'd be the best since I'm interested in the contrast abilities of the paper, the Kadeshi Multibeam Frigate is all white with a few black lines, not much to tell contrast from there.

[MAN MAN]

conand81 said:

A Torpedo Frigate it is then!
Think that'd be the best since I'm interested in the contrast abilities of the paper, the Kadeshi Multibeam Frigate is all white with a few black lines, not much to tell contrast from there.

eccept the engine.

[conand81]

manman said:

eccept the engine.

True, true. -_-

... and I think I've led us a little of topic, I'll add the results from the frigate to the Showcase forum later on.

Anyhow, I've been doing some scoring on it now, and I've been using the non-serrated side off a regular table-knife(the kind that goes with a fork). It's rather perfect in what it does to the paper, but the grip and handling is horrible, the serrated teeth is starting to dig into my finger and so on... got any tips for a better "scoring tool?"
... and I've been wondering on which side of the paper to score on, the colored side, or the back? So far I've only scored on the colored side since it's esier to line up the ruler, and the color don't seem to take to much of an beating unless I happen push way too hard. So, should I take myself the time to score on the back side?

Perhaps I could bother for some other advice as well?

[arlia101]

ive found the normal craft knife (same used for the rest of the model) to be useful enough for scoring on its own; just be sure you don't press too hard, otherwise you're in for a :lot: of glueing lol

[MAN MAN]

...think it will work. tonihgt i will record Half-Life 2:episode one and post a link to youtube.com

[conand81]

One thing I'm rather interested in is how Aruis in this post... :
ehacetfl.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=show&action=display&thread=1167657157
... did those cardboard segments that he uses to glue on the inside of the model to strengthen it. How does he get the measurements, since I guess he can't put that cardboard through the printer! Does he "shot from the hip" or does he measure them out in some way since they seem to fit so nicely.

Also, what paper does he use? Both for the model and for the reinforcement. (... me and my paper )

[conand81]

Ok, found the A.I. at fructose's site, so I found out he used 160g paper, but what kind? Matte, smooth, glossy or photo paper?
But the question still stands on how he made those reinforcements and some specifics on that cardboard?

I should "lurk" more as they say on 4chan, but that's time consuming.