Need general input/advice

[jacob]

Ok...now I've constructed 3 Homeworld models.

A Taiidan Destroyer and Battle Cruiser and a Kushan Multigun corvette. They were all constructed using standart printerpaper and uncoloured print, since the university's colourprinter is out of order (its been so for over 2 months now!! )

For glue I used a standard office glue stick and smeared the glue on using a match. First I tried a round tooth-pick, that definately didn't work. But an edgy/square match works quite well. The glue smears on rather good as it is a paste/butter like substance.

The destroyer was my first model. I used the rounded toothpick for it, and I didn't know about mountainfolds/valleyfolds at this point, so I errantly made all folds mountain folds.

The results can be seen here:
ehacetfl.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=show&action=display&thread=1200613391

The cronology is as follows: 1. Taiidan Destroyer, 2. Kushan Multigun Corvette, 3. Taiidan Battle Cruiser.

I look at these as 'practice' models, as I'd very much like to build Homeworld 2 models. Preferably with better results than these 3.

One of the things on my mind is: How do you know how much to fold? I mean, some folds are almost non-existent and others are more than 90 degrees. How do you tell?

Secondly: What glue should I use? I'm getting pretty good with the gluestick now I'd say. But I'm planning to go to a thicker and stronger paper type on the HW2 models. So how do you apply the glue?

How do you avoid crooked models? I find it very difficult to put two model modules together in a perfect fit?

I can't think of anything else to ask right now. Except this:

Say I want to start on the HW2 models now. The plan is to make a Hiigaran BC and Carrier, a progenitor Dreadnought and a Vaygr BC. But before that I want to build another model, using the same papertype and glue as these are suppose to be in. So I need a practice model to practice using the paper and glue that I'd be using for these 4 HW2 models.

I was thinking about the Hiigaran fighter bomber, because it looks good. But maybe its overly complicated.

Jacob

[conand81]

Hi Jacob.

Sorry to hear about the malfunctioning printer, must be frustrating.

Now, about folding. I've never found the precise angle to matter very much, I usually just fold the paper as to make the folds pliable or "a little loose". In the most cases the models structure just locks the folds into the correct angle. But the only way to know, at least so-so, is to check out the 3D-model on the computer, preferably in pepakura(unless you used a PDF), but in-game would work too, if you own the game.
A little warning on thicker papers and folding though; thicker paper usually consists of 'layers'(maybe just cheap paper, I dunno), and if you fold the paper too much, these layers can separate. Especially common when folding flaps too sharp. So don't do a full 180° fold, also scoring makes things easier here... but scoring too hard could potentially lead to "separation" as well, lol. So there's no dead-simple way.

As for glue, this question could start wars(I've seen it happen), but I find most of us here are pretty civilized, so here goes.
I use a very common water-based hobby/school-glue you should be able to find everywhere. It's white, non-transparent and is commonly "glue-like" in consistency, but without being "stringy". Furthermore it dries transparently, but at the same time lusterless(as contrary to shiny/"eye-catching"). I think it's absolutely awesome! The downside is the "water-based" part, if you use too much the paper will warp and become bubbly! So it might be a rather fine line to walk perhaps.
Moreover I find that it, at least the kind I'm using, doesn't dry so fast, so I can have a nice lump of glue ready on some cardboard at all times. Now "don't dry fast" would be a negative thing, but I find that when 'the right amount' of it comes in contact with paper, the water gets absorbed and the glue becomes very sticky, almost gluing the pieces together "instantly"(slight exaggeration).
I find this glue to work good for flaps, and it is brilliant when gluing "modules" together since it softens the paper, and since the bubbliness won't show it won't matter. But it's worthless for gluing large 'visible' areas, like when you reinforce the model, it's almost impossible to avoid bubbles.
---
I've heard from a friend that studies 'industrial design' that Rubber-based glues are supposed to be "the nuts", and he gets to build plenty of his projects in paper, so he should know I guess. But these glues also have some sort of petroleum-product in them as well, so you'll be burning some braincells while you're at it.
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For applying glue I use bits of fine cardboard(usually found in small/medium-sized product-boxes) I've cut out, works like a charm.
Sometimes I use 160g/m²(~43lb I think) paper that I glue in several layers(3 should suffice), as to saturate it with glue and make it hard. Then when it's dry, I cut out small little "dabbing-sticks"(or whatever to call them).
One advantage with those two methods are that when you get too much dried glue on the end, they are real easy to remodel with a pair of scissors and continue using it.
But from the sound of it I'd say matches will do more than fine.

Hohoho, avoiding crooked, twisted, bent and/or skewed models? Now the solution to that would almost qualify for the nobel-prize... but generally, a few(mostly psychological) hints are:

• Familiarize yourself with the model and its parts. Also try to visualize yourself putting it together and the easiest way to do it.
  
• Be as patient and gentle as you can with the model, sweaty hands are a definite no-no.
  
• Try to take the thickness of the paper into account when gluing those flaps together. Really f:ing hard, I know, even harder to explain if you don't get what I mean.
  
• And again, nailing those flaps correctly is key! In case it was not clear enough in the previous point.
  
• Take pauses and assess the situation regularly. Unless you get that wonderful "flow"-feeling when everything appears so obvious and gratifyingly easy, then you glue until you drop!
  
• Don't use too much glue (think that counts for any kind of glue).
  

Regarding another practice model I'm afraid I'm a bit stumped on that area atm... uhm, like, don't do the Hiigaran Interceptor(my first one), really hard... but generally, I guess you should do a somewhat large model, a Frigate perhaps? But if you could up-scale the Hiigaran fighter bomber to about 20cm(almost 8"), that'd be pretty neat! And as you said, it is a good looking model, and you've built 3 models already, complexity should be no concern of yours, especially since it's a practice model.

Well, hope that helped a little... and no, I can't write short, that takes to much brain-power.
Anyhow, keep up the good work! I'm looking forward to seeing your future contraptions... no pressure tho~ ;D

[jacob]

Hmmm...after reading your post I realize that I almost do all of those things in the bullet points! Except the sweaty fingers part...LOL!

So I guess I am ready to move on to more complex models.

How do you scale a model in pepakura viewer? Is it enough to print that attack bomber on A3?

Jacob

[conand81]

Hehe, about the sweaty hands, not sure what cures or causes that. But I guess an air-conditioner or a fan could be a solution, not dressing yourself in three layers of clothes could help as well, also, a chill attitude might do the trick... read you did the Taiidan Destroyer in 5h, that's not 'chillin'. ;
But if all else fails and it's "unavoidable", using tweezers is a recommendation.

To be able to scale the model you will need the editor, Pepakura Designer, because when you rescale everything you need to rearrange and rotate some pieces since they don't fit the paper anymore... this is nothing hard to do really, I'd recommend you try it yourself.

But if it's not in your ballpark, I have prepared for you a 22cm version of the Attack Bomber I found at Eric's site(hope that's the same model you were going to use).
Attack Bomber, 22cm (ZIP@224KB)
..it was originaly 15cm, so I think if you printed it on A3 you'd get about the same size as the one I rescaled. If I didn't miscalculate... a printout on A3 should produce a ~41.4% overall increase in size compared to a A4 printout... 15*1.414 = 21.21

[jacob]

LOL I meant that my fingers DOESN'T sweat when I build the models!

I've fiddled a little with the scaling in Pekura Designer...I think I know how its done now, but I haven't gotten the hang of it yet.

Anyway...thanks for the advice. Some during the second coming week I shall scoot off to a local printer store and have it printed! ;D I shall post the results.

Jacob

[conand81]

Wow! Did I ever read that wrong or what! XD

Then I think you should try it for yourself... it's really just one option you need to change and then just rearrange the pieces, 'n presto!

Awww, printer stores... why are they so hard to find in Sweden. I'm jealous. ;_;