Bentusi Super Acolyte - Ideas for ion cannon

[qwerty59]

This is my first post so, hello and all that stuff. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas concerning the Bentusi Super Acolyte. I was considering making the model have the ion cannons either removable or retractable. Didn't see anything in this section about that, but if there is, sorry for reposting.

At this point my ideas was to put two straws (seemed like something relatively sturdy for a slide) running through the center which I could use to slide the cannon out on. (Maybe cut the body panels out and have them slide out of the fuselage) The other idea was to run the two straws through, but just remove the "wings" to attach the ion cannon and then slide the wings back on. Any suggestions would be great.

Also, I'm using the model from YessMasster's site hwmodels.ovh.org/models.html#Bentusi and it's about 6.5''/16.6 cm. It's my 3rd model so, I understand the basics at least. At this point I've got most of the components put together but wouldn't be against building another copy. I did this one in black and white (all the school can do) on paper. (Didn't have cardstock and felt like trying something different. It's pretty fun/challenging but can be a bit flimsy.)

Thanks

[GreatDane]

Hi, qwerty59!

Thats an interesting idea you have! I've read your post earlier but haven't given it any thought, until now...

*scratches back of head *

If I can find me the time for it, I'll try and build a solution I came up with, just now. It's a bit difficult to explain, and probably better to show.
The thing is; those wings not only open up, they slide backwards too! And the guns are inside the wings, when closed... My best bet would be to cut out a recess in the inner face of the wings (along side the guns). The textures show some sort of compartment, along which you could cut. It seems big enough for the guns to fit in later. After that, try to fit a 'chamber' made out of paper, inside the wing, with 'walls' (pointing inwards, inside the wing) that run neatly along the previously cut recess! These 'walls' should guide the cut out face nicely, when you've strengthened it with cardstock. Next, attach the cut out face to the gun (Be carefull when alligning those parts) with spacers from (colored?) cardstock, or your straws, if you'd desire?
It might be able to slide open/closed by now, if I'm correct. It can be done, albeit a bit tricky...
Now it only needs to slide backwards as well...
I guess you could cut a 'long' thin recess in the cut out face (if you didn't attach it yet) pointing from front to back. No, not all the way... Through this recess you could run a piece of flat cardstock (for strength), attached onto the gun, that slides through the opening? Attach a second piece of cardstock, onto it, at a 90 degree angle to prevent the cut out face from falling off.

'Told ya; easier to view, that to explain.
But that sorta wraps up the idea I had...

[GreatDane]

Even better:
1. Let the guns (+attached wings) slide into the hull! The hull is much bigger, and has a flat bottom, easing construction & allignment. (Do use cardstock for strenghtening the whole of the model!!)
2. Now You'd only have to cut these long recesses I spoke about, into the inner faces (that fit the hull when closed) like I described above... The wings will be stronger that way, instead of chopping them up...

[luciora]

Using standard office paper, I usually reinforce it by gluing on another sheet of paper to the back to help stiffen it up. Make sure to apply the glue to the peice you are attaching and not to the parts page, since the moisture can cause wrinkles and possibly tears. I've also attached it to cardstock as well like a facade.

If I use cardstock, I have also pasted the same office paper to the back, as it helps provide a nice backing when you score the paper too. Especially if you are not too careful and cut too deeply.

[GreatDane]

Hi luciora!

I usually print my models on 80-100 grams plain printer paper (you know, the cheapest ones around) for test builds. And use 100 grams 'mega white' paper for final builds. This way I build models easy & fast with the least problems caused due to paper thickness (the thicker/heavier the paper, the more problems occur in fitting parts) light paper models can be easily strengthened by adding card stock inside the model:

Believe me; it's as solid as wood!

For scoring fold lines I use the (blunt, but pointy) tip of my straight tweezers. They don't harm the printout (!), and the cutting mat (provided that you use one) is flexible enough to prevent pressing through the paper but still scribe a nice fold line!
Only the glue flap fold lines I cut; carefully & gently. I like to hide away glue flaps & paper thickness, and by carefully cutting, folding, and subsequently using the round stem of a pencil or pen, I (usually) can push away the glue flap so far inside, it doesn't show!

Experiment a bit, like I do. Results will come surely!
- if you don't try, you won't succeed -

_{(Or like my mum says; "can't do" lies in the graveyard, "won't do" lies besides it')}

[qwerty59]

Thanks for the ideas, don't have a ton of time right now (week before finals for me) but if I've got a bit of time over winter break I might try a few of these ideas. Also, when I get home, I can finally have access to a color printer!